Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Rose of Omar by Richard Hudnut c1912

Richard Hudnut’s choice of the name Rose of Omar in 1912 for his perfume was inspired by the romantic allure of The Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyám, the famous collection of Persian quatrains by the 11th-century poet. In this context, Rose of Omar alludes to the poem’s themes of fleeting beauty, sensual pleasures, and a contemplative embrace of life, symbolized by the rose. The name “Omar” is pronounced as oh-MAHR, evoking an exotic, faraway charm. By tying the fragrance to the legendary Persian poet, Hudnut infused the scent with an image of luxurious, dreamlike mystique that resonated with the era’s fascination for the East.

Rose of Omar would have conjured images of lush, aromatic gardens under moonlight, mingling with an air of introspection and elegance. For women in the early 20th century, this name would have suggested a fragrance inspired by the wisdom and beauty of ancient Persia, aligning with the popular Orientalist aesthetic of the time. The fragrance would likely evoke a sense of refined seduction—like wearing a poetic relic from a distant land that whispered of enchanting beauty.

The scent of Rose of Omar is centered around rose, which was a staple note in perfumery, beloved throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries for its delicate yet impactful character. Perfume houses competed fiercely to present new interpretations of rose, crafting names that distinguished their fragrances within a crowded market. Rose of Omar stood out with its name and inspiration, capitalizing on the Western allure of Orientalism, which saw the East as mysterious, sensual, and opulent.

At the time, rose fragrances were typically crafted from natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures. As the industry advanced, especially by the 1920s, innovations introduced synthetic elements and prefabricated aromachemical bases, enhancing the perfume’s longevity and complexity. Hudnut’s Rose of Omar represented both a celebration of the classic rose scent and a nod to the evolving craft of perfumery—combining tradition with subtle innovation, wrapped in an atmosphere of romantic, Persian-inspired allure.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is a rose soliflore fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: neroli, rose geranium, acacia, rose
  • Middle notes: rose, lemongrass, orris root, tuberose, jasmine
  • Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, tolu balsam, civet, guaiac wood, ambrette

Scent Profile:



As Rose of Omar unfolds, it opens with an immediate sense of lush, bright blooms. The first notes are an invigorating combination of neroli and rose geranium, filling the air with a tangy, almost green quality. The neroli adds a subtle citrusy sparkle that lifts the heavier floral scents, while rose geranium introduces a slightly minty sharpness, grounding the initial brightness with an earthy touch. Acacia joins in with a honeyed warmth, a soft and inviting sweetness, while the rose—delicate yet rich—unfurls in this initial bouquet, filling the senses with its classic, timeless beauty.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart notes emerge, creating an exquisite floral tapestry. The pure rose note blooms more fully here, enveloped by the buttery sweetness of tuberose, which lends a creamy, almost narcotic softness. 

Jasmine joins in, adding an intoxicating, powdery richness, while orris root’s soft, violet-like earthiness tempers the otherwise heady florals, giving the scent an opulent texture. A hint of lemongrass cuts through with a touch of lemony freshness, infusing the heart with an unexpected brightness that lifts the heavier florals.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a warm, complex, and subtly animalic finish. Patchouli introduces an earthy, slightly spicy quality, grounding the sweeter florals and leading into sandalwood’s warm, creamy richness. Tolu balsam adds a resinous depth, almost like a sweet, aged wood with a hint of vanilla, while civet’s subtle animalic touch provides a sense of warmth and mystery. 

Guaiac wood and ambrette give the base a smooth, musky quality that lingers with a hint of smoky sweetness. Together, these rich, exotic notes provide the perfect setting for the rose, allowing it to linger with a luxurious, almost mystical warmth that captures the essence of Rose of Omar as a fragrant tribute to romance and mystery.



Bottles:


Rose of Omar was presented in various bottles over the years. 


















Fate of the Fragrance:


Rose of Omar by Richard Hudnut made its debut in 1912, capturing the early 20th-century fascination with exotic and romantic themes, and reflecting the trend of Orientalism in perfumery. Its rose-centric fragrance appealed to women seeking a touch of luxurious allure, resonating with the era’s preference for floral and opulent scents. Although the exact discontinuation date remains unknown, Rose of Omar remained in circulation through 1931, indicating a sustained popularity and loyal following well into the Art Deco period. This extended availability suggests that the fragrance continued to appeal to women’s evolving tastes over the years, maintaining its allure as a fragrance with a touch of exoticism and sophistication.


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